Pace e Bene

St. Francis, St. Clare and what an old nun taught me with a glance

For our Anniversary, my wife and I like to travel. Our goal is to get out of the country every year for a week; sometimes we make it, sometimes we don’t. This year we were in Maui for a week, enjoyed it but got restless for a little more adventure than what the idyllic Hawaiian isles can offer. In the past, we’ve been to Barbados to stay at the only place George Washington ever visited outside of the United States. We’ve been to Paris to hear Mozart’s Requiem performed at my favorite church, La Madeleine. We’ve been to London and Oxford to revisit the haunts of my youth while a student at St. Peter’s.

One year, we found an incredible deal and booked a week in Umbria. It feels like Tuscany did 25 years ago, more rustic, more focused on its heritage and less on attracting visitors. On our package deal, we received the world’s smallest car to drive around for the week and we ended going far and wide to explore the countryside, only to end up back at our hotel for dinner with the Germans every night.

Sheya had visited Assisi before and had told me many times of how beautiful and perfect it was, so one day on the road we saw a sign for the city and took the offramp. It was beautiful, welcoming and well situated for visitors. Thousands of people come every year to visit the magnificent shrine of St. Francis who takes the limelight, especially today since his preaching and beliefs were almost new age by comparison to contemporary religion then, and now.

In his mission, Francis was assisted by Saint Clare. She was born in 1194 in Assisi, Italy, into a noble family. She heard Saint Francis preach during Lent, which deeply moved her. Inspired by his teachings and radical way of life, Clare sought to dedicate herself to God and follow a similar path of poverty and devotion.

On the night of Palm Sunday in 1212, Clare secretly left her family's home and went to the Porziuncola, the small chapel where Francis and his followers lived. There, Francis cut off her hair, symbolizing her renunciation of worldly wealth and status. Clare became the first woman to join Francis and his companions. She founded an order of nuns so that women could participate in the pared-back simple life of faith and devotion made popular and accessible by the Franciscans.

On our way into town, I noticed a small sign indicating that the tomb of St Clare was in a small church. Before walking down the causeway to visit the major shrine, we took a quick detour. The church was simple but had been magnificently enhanced and decorated by the treasure of pilgrims for 800+ years. There were few visitors, and the ones that were present were all in nun’s habits.

In the basement, we reached the Chapel of St Clare where her relics (long hair and fingernails) were displayed. As we looked around, an older lady in a nuns habit stood to my right. She must have been 102 years old, short and stooped. When she reached the front of the Chapel to see the treasures of the founder of her order, she inhaled sharply, shook her head quickly, glanced down and then raised her head with a smile beaming from her small face. I’ve seen that look in the faces of new fathers, pure and humble joy that leaves no room for ego. There were few others in the room so she met eyes with me. It was precious.

I assume she had spent her whole life in the service of God and his people, inspired by the example of a woman who died over 750 years ago. That day they met in person and I was blessed to see what it meant to her. We didn't speak a word, parted soon after, but I have a feeling that her smile will be with me forever.

In their belief, Franciscans and Clares preach the phrase “Pace e Bene,” or “Peace and Goodwill,” as the foundation of relationship between all things living. In order to enter the right headspace to heal the world, one must be at peace and want only the good to be brought forth through the action of love.

That sounds as good a starting place as any I’ve ever known.

“Do not be disturbed by the clamor of the world, which passes like a shadow.”

— St Clare of Assisi